In Review | Tokyo Fashion Week: Men’s Fall/Winter 2016
Photo: Pacific Press(Getty Images).
The absence of many top prize winners from Tokyo who moved their runway shows to Paris Fashion Week this year was felt heavily at the Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Tokyo exhibitions. But Japan is known for its cutting edge, ahead-of-the-pack designs even though it was generally reviewed as “lo-fi” this year. Techy outdoor materials, survival and military inspirations were artistically incorporated via pieces that were patched, washed, or in some cases remade. Throughout the show, denim showed up again and again along with chunky knits and multiple mixed fabrics, which added to the more “street-casual” feel of almost every runway show.
Our Tokyo Fashion Week Picks:
Takeshi Kitazawa and Emiko Sato, the design due behind of Dressedundressed, stepped it up with a mishmash of cool unisex streetwear and oversized outerwear. From hanging belts, neck bands, shorter (then longer) sleeves and pant lengths, the oversize clothes had a definite 90’s feel, reflecting the innovation and craftsmanship of the collections. Many, however missed the mark of the fun theatrics and runway camp of previous shows.
Technical master Yoshio Kubo’s creative mix of Native American and Scandinavian influences with a 60’s hippy vibe created an eclectic style. Ponchos, bomber jackets, tunics and more, all done with amazing tailoring, made this experimental energy hard to follow for those wanting to pigeonhole him. Looking for the assertive fashion buyer who is willing to throw off old ideas about what menswear is and should be, his runway carpet ponchos and unraveling fringe coats proved perfect for the Tokyo crowds. With great color palettes, new shapes and skirt swinging fringes, some of his models strutted with stiff Mohawk headpieces, proudly wearing his inspired patterns.
At designer Mihara Yasuhiro’s Modified show, the designer remade his own vintage military collection into a couture runway exhibition. A shoe designer who moved his passion to the runway, his uniqueness and designed details can been seen in his footwear and apparel collections. His use of distressed raw materials with burn marks, matted knits and worn denim patchwork made viewers wonder if his somewhat downhearted clothes reflect the history of his Nagasaki birthplace. Earthtones, mixed layering, exaggerated lengths, silk blends and loose trousers conjured some real street grit.
PLASTICTOKYO designer Keisuke Imazaki matched his runway pieces with unique head wraps that tightly braced the skull and chin like helmets. Influenced by grunge, the collection’s exaggerated proportions, frayed edges, mixed fabrics and trims creatively re-imagined streetwear. Question is, which streets? Pants slashed into strips, new takes on the traditional overcoat all made for an adventurous look composed by a cutting edge designer.
Discovered designers Tatsuya Kimura and Sanae Yoshida sent out explorers to create a downtown vibe influenced by travel, trek gear and urban warriors. Roughness married to modern presented sophisticated, understated sleek looks. Individually washed wool jackets, bomber jackets and hybrid streetwear gave the look an understated sophistication that delivered contemporary masculinity with subdued style tones.
Mr. Gentleman designers Takeshi Osumi and Yuichi Yoshi are known for fusing men’s streetwear with slick fabrications and polishes. Designing for the ultra-cool smart dresser, they incorporate velvets, denims, creative edgings and unique fabrics with an “athleisure” flair.
All images courtesy of Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Tokyo, unless otherwise noted.
Of course, some of the best, most entertaining and inspiring looks that happen during any fashion week happens on the street! Here’s our favorite looks worn by attendees to this year’s Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Tokyo: Fall/Winter 2016 presentations: