London Collections Men | Matthew Miller : Autumn/Winter 2016

photo: Yannis Vlamos /

Matthew Miller, typically one to put a fresh spin on whatever may be trending in any particular season seemed to be a bit more, dare we say “basic” during yesterdays Autumn/Winter 2016 London Collections Men show. Possibly used as a distraction from the potentially standard yet perfected tailored looks, was a barrage of deafening rock music being played as models walked the runway. There’s no denying that Miller’s trim tailoring was perfect as seen by his use of felted and textured fabrics in the creation of the single breasted suits and tubular top coats.

Miller has a design philosophy that positions fashion as a product, just like ceramics or furniture, balancing simple manufacturing values with an artist’s approach to his craft. He sees the wearer as integral to a garment’s worth, raising its importance as soon as it’s worn because of the cultural capital accrued depending on what he or she does in it – or to it – and so developing the inherent character of each piece.

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Says Miller, “I never saw beauty as being something that was a physical object. I fundamentally see beauty as being a moment in time, a fleeting feeling, a scar, a memory, an experience, a sense of freedom.” Through his words and his designs, we see his philosophy come to life.

Though not the most exciting collection, his use of classic colors like black and grey throughout make it one that can be worn for years to come, both as complete looks and as separates. Layering looks is essential to winter dressing and Miller shows the technique with ease by using flowing fabrications that lay perfectly as well as teasing the eye with tonal pieces. With the addition of a few artsy touches, leather arm bands and black leather gloves as a staple, there may not have been many eyebrow raising moment but there were certainly secret wish lists being made.