There may be Michelin-starred restaurants with breathtaking views, but I’m guessing there aren’t any with an infinity pool inhabited by three giant-sized rubber ducks. The playful sight is part of the experience on the French island of Corsica.
Perched in the hills above the harbor of Calvi, the luxurious Hotel La Villa is the setting for Table de Bastien, namesake of Chef Sebastien Sevellec. The view alone is worth a star, with indoor and outdoor seating.
A two-tiered terrace allows everyone a spectacular site of the sunset, bathing the harbor in pastels, from the citadel, to the sea, to the olive trees set against the mountains. And after dark, the harbor gives off a gentle glow below the night sky.
Corsicans are born foodies. The island’s residents are renowned for their passion for food. Amen. And unlike other distant spots, Corsica has fertile land, which creates a bounty of fresh, produce. Add to that several working ports where fishermen come back with the day’s haul. What a treat to have all this at your fingertips, and none of it expensive.
Still, this is a French-governed outpost and haute cuisine has god-like status. The menu blends the Corsican and Mediterranean kitchen with ingredients like fresh fig prepared tartare-style with almonds, and honey vinegar as a dizzying accompaniment to foie gras. We began with a luscious lobster tail in a chickpea puree, flavored with sesame oil, adrift in a veloute of rocket, miso and verbena. A refreshing sorbet cleansed our palates before moving on to a main dish of monkfish steak sitting on a bed of cepes, in a jus reduction, accompanied by a handful of dainty gnocchi. The monkfish was glorious, meaty and succulent, and the cepes in their gentle, rustic gravy made for a perfect pairing of light and hearty.
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Pre-dessert was a mango, passionfruit and yogurt pannacotta with a delicious pistachio topping, which was light and lovely, and paved the way for a small chocolate tower. It arrived as a smooth, silky mousse, wrapped in a piece of rolled-out chocolate, with a thin sliver on top, just like a chapeau, holding a dollop of cocoa ice cream. The surprising hit of the dish was the crunchy biscuit and nougat foundation.
As if the pre-dessert and 100% chocolate weren’t enough, handmade treasures were served afterwards. Chef Sevellec saved the best for last, light-as-a-feather coconut marshmallow squares, salted caramels so fresh, they almost melted before they crossed my lips.
If you’re lucky enough to stay at the Hotel La Villa, there IS nowhere better to indulge. If you’re staying elsewhere, or even just passing through Calvi, a stop here is well worth it. The view alone is priceless, the food worth every Euro.
