Who’s Next Paris 2015 | Martin Across & Matteo Lamandini
Paris Fashion Week is upon us. The usual heavy hitters are in force unveiling their latest hits or misses. But the real talk of the town has become more about Who’s Next (Sept. 4-7), the series of events strictly for the young upstarts pulling the rug out from under the been-there-done-that all veterans. We raided the closets of a couple of the promising new young guns to discover the trends you’ll be wearing in the weeks to come.
Martin Across is not your average fashion designer. Repeat: not your average fashion designer. At only 21 years of age, the Barcelona native is already turning heads. Across challenges notions of menswear and masculinity with a bold new fashionable foot forward, pairing frocks and long shirts that could actually work for either men or women. But these are definitely looks for men.
His new lookbook features sea-like colors and curved shapes that are remarkably pop and contemporary as well as abstract. Sleeves are crescent shaped, shoes platformed (stacked high enough to reach that jump shot you’ve always wanted), and wool trousers are cut low in the crotch and pleated high above the ankles. Across goes against the grain by giving men bright colors, like blue and lime, and sensual palettes with camel, violet and ecru. These aren’t dresses or baggy pants for men. These are an entirely new species of menswear fashioned straight out of the sketchbooks of Martin Across’ mind.
Matteo Lamandini is the 2015 Designer For Tomorrow winner. Having recently unveiled his new Spring/Summer 2016 at Berlin’s Mercedes Benz Fashion Week, he is poised to take Paris’ Who’s Next by storm. For his Tristesse Contemporaine collection, Lamandini pulled inspiration from the way American kids were dressed in old black and white photos. So essentially, the checkered, pinstriped schoolboy looks are married with a baggier, more urban flare. The result is what rocked a number of fashion shows from Milan to Berlin. And Paris is next.
Lamandini cuts straight shapes on long oversized shorts and trousers, button down jackets and shirts, and pulls up your britches with some cool suspenders. But that’s only where he starts. He can be simply urban and edgy, or boldly feminine…or both.